Dish pick: Fried Green Tomato BLT at Skillet

Beth Stallings, Columbus Crave

When I moved to Columbus three years ago, nearly everyone had the same answer when I asked where I should eat: Skillet. The advice was spot on and, ever since, I've enjoyed helping friends and family discover this 30-seater in Schumacher Place with locally-sourced, chef-driven comfort fare.

Now that it's in season, the Fried Green Tomato BLT-the dish that gave me my first bite of the burgeoning Columbus food scene-is back on the menu.

It's not purely nostalgia that has me rushing to Skillet this time of year; the dish is just that good. If you're a fried green tomato lover like me, this dish should top your must-try list. I love it for its balance. Every ingredient is offset by another. Let's start with the thick slices of grilled brioche so buttery, you'll need an extra napkin to clean your hands. It would be too rich if not for the mild fried egg. Cornmeal-dusted green tomatoes are tangy and just barely sour-a perfect play against smoky and crisp bacon. Local lettuce gives the BLT a bit of bright bitterness, offset by the eatery's zippy ooo-eee! sauce.

But you don't have to notice the balance or the subtle ways chef Kevin Caskey makes something as diner-iconic as a BLT sing. All you need to know is this is one heck of a sandwich and a great reason to head down to Skillet if you haven't yet discovered this tiny gem. Oh, and don't skip the accompanying side of quinoa salad so good, I wish chef Kevin Caskey would package and sell it.