FOOD

Fresh look: Cuco's Taqueria

Beth Stallings, Columbus Crave

Cuco's Taqueria closed for remodeling last month. As most construction projects do, it took longer than expected for this popular Mexican joint on Henderson Road to reopen. I had planned to stop in for walleye fish tacos during Farm to Plate week-but delays in inspections kept their doors closed until this week.

While a small collection of Mexican goods are still for sale around the hostess stand, the restaurant as a whole finally feels like a place intended to sit down and eat. Most notably, the space has been opened up. The bar sits flat against the back wall. There's more room to wait inside (something you'll most likely have to do). And a retractable garage door in the back opens a small indoor seating area to a new patio enclosed with a fittingly bright blue fence. Oh, and regulars, don't worry-the salsa bar remains intact.

The menu, still full of traditional Mexican favorites from tacos to burritos, tortas and fajitas, is also new in presentation. It's no longer a plastic-paged booklet, though it's still as lengthy, now printed double-sided on one large piece of paper. I was finally able to fulfill my fish taco craving with lightly breaded and fried strips of fish topped with a creamy, tangy sauce. I washed that down with "The Original" Margarita Tapatia, which pleased the margarita purest in me-give me tequila, Cointreau and fresh lime juice, and I'm one happy customer.